A feira is a street market. Once a week, a street in almost every neighbourhood fills with stalls of fruit, vegetables and fish — and food you eat standing up.

Two classics come as a pair: a hot pastel, a thin, crisp fried pastry with a filling, and a cold caldo de cana, sugarcane juice pressed while you wait.

Rio also has the Feira de São Cristóvão, a huge covered fair of food and music from the Nordeste, Brazil's Northeast. It's a great place to try tapioca: a soft wrap made from cassava starch, cooked in a hot pan and filled to order.